How to throw a flick.

The flick — also called the forehand or "two-finger" — is the second throw every ultimate player learns. It feels weird for about two weeks, then it becomes the throw you reach for whenever you need accuracy, zip, and a release point your defender can't see coming. Here's how to build it from scratch.

01Why the flick matters

Beginners can run an entire pickup game on backhands. They cannot run a competitive game on backhands. Here's why the flick is non-negotiable once you start playing real defense:

• Different release point. A backhand is thrown from your throwing-side hip after a wind-up across your body. A flick releases from the throwing-side, low and quick. A defender who's set up to block your backhand has to completely reposition to stop your flick.
• Faster release. A backhand needs a full wind-up. A flick can leave your hand in under half a second from a stationary position. When the mark is breathing down your neck and the stall is at eight, a flick is what gets the disc out.
• Tighter window. The flick's flat trajectory and tight spin mean you can thread it between defenders. A backhand tends to float; a good flick laser-beams.

If you can throw a flick to the same distance and accuracy as your backhand, you've roughly doubled your offensive value on the field.

02The grip

The flick grip is the one thing nearly every beginner gets wrong. Get this right and everything else falls into place. Get it wrong and no amount of effort will make the disc fly straight.

The "peace sign" method

1. Make a peace sign with your throwing hand — index and middle finger extended, ring and pinky tucked.
2. Place those two fingers inside the rim of the disc, splayed apart slightly so the middle finger is pressed firmly against the inside edge of the rim.
3. Place your thumb on top of the disc, opposite the two fingers underneath.
4. The ring and pinky fingers curl under, tucked away. They do nothing for the throw and should never touch the rim.

Some throwers use a "stacked" grip with both fingers together against the rim; others spread them apart like a peace sign. Both work — try both and stick with whichever feels stable. The non-negotiable part is the middle finger pressure.

03Stance & pivot

Throwing technique cannot be separated from footwork. Most "my flick is bad" complaints are actually "my pivot is bad."

• For a right-handed thrower, your left foot is the pivot foot — it stays planted.
• Step your right foot out to the right, opening your hips toward the throwing target. The bigger this step, the more space you have to throw around your defender (the "mark") and the more power you can generate.
• Your shoulders should rotate perpendicular to the line you want the disc to travel. If you're throwing straight ahead, your shoulders point to the right of the field.
• Bend your knees. A flick thrown standing upright is a weak flick. A flick thrown from a low athletic stance has weight behind it.

The opposite is true for left-handers: right foot pivots, step left.

04The motion, step by step

05Where the spin comes from

A flick that doesn't spin is a flick that doesn't go anywhere. You'll know spin is the problem when the disc wobbles in the air ("bladey" or "fluttery") and falls short of where you aimed.

Spin comes from two places, in this order of importance:

1. Wrist snap. The forward whip of the wrist is what spins the disc. The faster you can snap, the more spin you generate. This is muscle memory — there are no shortcuts.
2. Middle finger pressure. As discussed in the grip section, pressing the middle finger hard into the rim during the release adds the final acceleration to the disc's rotation.

06Five common mistakes

1. The "blading" flick (outside edge up)

The most common beginner flick releases with the outside edge of the disc tilted up. The disc immediately rolls right (for right-handers) and crash-lands. Fix: flatten the disc at release. A useful exaggeration is to feel like the outside edge is below the inside edge at release; in practice this tends to come out flat.

2. The arm throw

If your shoulder and entire arm are swinging the disc forward, you're using too much arm and not enough wrist. The result: lots of effort, no spin, no distance. Fix: tuck your elbow into your ribs and force yourself to throw with only your forearm and wrist. Start short — five-yard throws — until the wrist motion is locked in.

3. Loft / no zip

Throws that float lazily upward and hang in the air are easy to defend. They're a sign that you're releasing the disc on an upward angle and following through high. Fix: keep your release flat and let your follow-through go low and to the side.

4. Wobbly disc ("flutter")

Almost always a spin problem (see section 05). Sometimes it's a grip problem too — if the disc is loose in your fingers, you can't generate spin. Squeeze the grip with your middle finger.

5. Stepping into the defender

The reason the flick is useful is that it releases to the side, away from your mark. If you step forward with your throwing-side foot instead of out to the side, you're throwing yourself into the defender and have no space. Fix: think "step around the mark," not "step toward the receiver."

07Drills to grind

Wall drill (solo)

Stand five metres from a wall. Throw flicks at the wall and catch the rebound. The wall doesn't drop catches and doesn't move, so you can do hundreds of reps in twenty minutes. Focus on one thing per session: grip, release angle, spin, low follow-through.

Five-yard partner drill

Stand five metres from a partner. Throw nothing but flicks for ten minutes. Both of you have to throw flicks even on the return — no backhand "give-back" allowed. Resist the urge to throw harder; the goal is a flat, repeatable release at slow speed.

Pivot-and-release

Plant your left foot. Pivot your right foot through 90° and throw a flick to a partner standing to your right. Catch the return, plant again, pivot the other way and throw a backhand to a partner standing to your left. Alternates train the muscle memory of opening to the flick side.

Stall drill

Have a friend mark you and count out a stall. Plant your pivot, fake the backhand, then break out to the flick side and release before they say "ten." This is the situation you'll actually be in during a game — the one where most flicks get thrown.

08Realistic progression timeline

• Week 1: Disc wobbles, flies off-target, lots of frustration. Grip feels alien. Throws max out at 10 metres before nosediving. This is normal.
• Week 2–3: The flat release clicks. Most throws now go in roughly the direction you intended. Distance reaches 15–20 metres.
• Month 2: Confidence in pickup games. You can reliably hit a stationary target at 20 metres. Throws start having visible spin.
• Month 3–6: Distance opens up to 30+ metres. You can throw under pressure with a mark on you. You start using flicks as your primary break throw.
• Year 1+: Flicks are your favourite throw. You roll your eyes at beginners who refuse to learn them.

If you're putting in 30 minutes of practice three times a week, you'll hit each milestone roughly on schedule. If you only throw at practice once a week, expect everything to take three times longer.

Related

If you haven't played a real game yet, start with the FAQ on the sport and the rules guide. When you're ready to organize your own game, see how to set up a pickup game.